|
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
When
thinking about entering the world of Motorised Paragliding several options
are available: A BRIEF OVERVIEW OF THE DIFFERENT ENGINE OPTIONS. Our Cd effectively revolves around the Solo & Hirth engines, the Racket& and 100cc go cart engines (the PCR & KT100cc). SOLO / Hirth 210cc RACKET 120cc Engine 100cc Engines
The overall reduction drive and mounting mechanism and design may be the same for each engine chosen. Many different designs are however shown on our plans. Various prop options are available for each design and may include 2, 3 and 4 blade wood or composite ground adjustable pitch options. Making your own powered paraglider should save one in the region of 40- 50%, if one has access to machining. If you subcontract out the work, depending where it is undertaken, one should have a saving of 20-40%. A second hand wing should set you back in the region of R5-6000 South African Rands, while a brand new one around R12-14000 South African Rands. Applying your logo or business name will cost around R1500-2500 rands. (To convert this currency to one of your choice go to the end of our price list and visit the currency converter).
OUR PLANS CD NOW INCLUDES HOW TO BUILD YOUR PPG FROM A MOTOR BIKE ENGINE WITHOUT EVEN TURNING ANY REDUCTION PULLEYS. THIS NOW MAKES THIS DOCUMENT PROBABLY THE LARGEST IN THE WORLD AS IT CONTAINS PLANS FOR GO CART ENGINES, MOTOR BIKE EMGINES, AND ALL THE OTHER STANDARD DESIGNS USING REDUCTION RATIOS SUCH AS SOLOS, HIRTHS ETC AND CENTRIFUGAL CLUTCH ENGINES. IT ALSO IS PROVIDED WITH HUNDREDS OF FULL COLOR PHOTOS OF ASSEMBLY HINTS, A FULL 260 PAGE E BOOK, ALSO FULL COLOR ON POWERED PARAGLIDING AND A 30 MIN PPG VIDEO. THERES NOT MUCH MORE YOU COULD WANT!! THIS IS A BRIEF EXPLANATION BY ETIENNE SMUTS ON HOW TO BUILD HIS PPG FROM A MOTOR BIKE ENGINE. Flying has always interested me, but only got to flying R/C planes. I made up my mind after searching the net and ending up at a site called Skytribe. I phoned Dave after some good advice, I decided I am going to build a PPG. I phoned around looking for a 100 cc go-cart engine but ended up buying an ex-race Honda NSR 125, liquid cooled engine with wiring harness carburetor, radiator, exhaust and everything else I needed. I started stripping this motor by removing the clutch cover and clutch assembly, at this stage I was still considering cutting the gearbox section off and only using the engine. I somehow would have had to mount a propeller drive shaft and reduction system. Looking at the crank gear and clutch gear I realized that this was the way to go and decided to remove everything not needed like selector drum, gear selector drum, shafts, gears etc. The clutch gear was easy to remove, only needed to drill six rivets. I had to split the engine to remove the primary and secondary shafts and the gears attached to them. I still used the primary shaft. Some other motor cycle engines like the Honda NSR 250 (which is a twin cylinder though, producing 65 Hp easily) has a gearbox that can be removed from the side of the engine once the clutch cover has been removed. I had to split this one though. The flywheel has to be removed as all the bolts keeping the engine together are fitted from the left, some behind the flywheel. The barrel has to be removed as well, but can be removed with cylinder head still attached, so I didn't have to buy a new head gasket. The engine was in an excellent condition and hardly any carbon was on the piston, it obviously has been replaced recently to ensure best performance. The conrod / crank also had no play at all! I had to have an output shaft machined that fitted to the clutch gear with six bolts. The shock dampening rubbers were still used to keep things smooth and dampen unwanted “shocks” etc. possibly shortening the engine life time. The clutch cover was milled out the centre for the output shaft and a bearing retaining boss carefully aligned and welded to the clutch cover. This boss also housed the oil seal that runs on a steel sleeve that was pressed onto the shaft. The propeller hub and locating plate was turned on a lathe and both were anodized. The hub is located in position onto the shaft with a round pin. The pin's hole was drilled half / half in the hub and shaft, al most like a locating key. The engine was assembled after all the removed shaft's holes were blanked off using shaped aluminum plates and PRC sealant. I built my cage using mild steel 19 x 0.9 mm and 16 x 0.9 mm tubing. It ended up very light yet strong. “Long nuts” were turned round and welded into holes drilled in the cage where the engine was to be mounted. The engine was mounted in three positions each position using two engine mount rubbers that were screwed into “long nuts” in cage. The bike had a PRD (after market pipe). I fitted the pipe to the engine, cutting and turning it as necessary after lengthening it to bring the max power down to about 9000 – 9500 RPM. The engine is very strong, I had to set the power valve closed quite a bit to stop it from over speeding the prop. I am going to fit a courser pitch prop and open the power valve again at a later stage. It is a pleasure with the electric starter and I have no problems at all to get it started, touch the button and it starts. If I had to remove the flywheel, starter, charging coils, wiring and battery it should weigh in at the same weight as the solo 210 which weighs 30kg's but THIS solo also hasn't got electric start and vibrates a lot more than the Honda engine. I am convinced that I am going to have hours & hours of trouble free service from this very reliable engine that cost me R2500.00 excluding the machining of the shaft, the tubing, paint, bolts, nuts etc. And should I mention I took a week leave from work and completed it!!
|
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Copyright ©2002
Skytribe - Developed by Insynch Solutions
|
Menu |
>
Back Home |