Build it - Engine types
 


 

 

 

When thinking about entering the world of Motorised Paragliding several options are available:
Build it |
Build it Overview | Engine Types| Bar Types | Reduction Ratios

A BRIEF OVERVIEW OF THE DIFFERENT ENGINE OPTIONS.

Our Cd effectively revolves around the Solo & Hirth engines, the Racket& and 100cc go cart engines (the PCR & KT100cc).

SOLO / Hirth 210cc
By far the most common paramotor used in the world. No internal gear box is present and thus a reduction drive is essential. These are much cheaper that those paramotors using a direct drive and hence an internal gear box is not essential to keep the prop rotating at the desired speed, They do however deliver just as much thrust as the more expensive options. Like all designs we offer this is easy to assemble and make your self at a fraction of conventional costs using our complete set of plans. Additional power may be gained with certain easy internal engine mods or by using our tuned exhaust system. Tandem flying may now be possible.

RACKET 120cc Engine

Quite a bit cheaper that the Solo and Hirth, however may require a bit more work. Many of these designs are supplied with a centrifugal clutch system (which allows the engine to start, however the prop will remain stationary until power is applied). It is easier on many of these designs to remove the clutch and do away with this system. The standard exhaust system may be used (the pipe will have to be cut and bent), however we have developed a tuned pipe especially designed to increase the power output for these engines. Again diagrams and in-depth photos are shown on our CD pertaining to these engines.

100cc Engines
This is the most cost effective paramotor anyone could ever build. Secondhand cart engines are obtainable for around R1500 South African rands. The long straight exhaust may be cut and bent to curve around the motor, a reduction drive made, then simply bolted onto a standard frame and there you are! As each engine revs at a different optimal RPM, the reduction drive and prop pitch and diameter will vary for each design. The only slight disadvantage (if it could be considered one), would be the fact the 100cc engines are slightly heavier than the other options, making ground handling more tedious (once air borne all weight is taken up by the wing). Secondly they are higher revving engines and thus are louder at full throttle, however most of the noise is blown backwards and should you fly with a helmet most noise is eliminated.


Left-PCR 100 cc go cart engine Right -KT 100cc go cart engine

The overall reduction drive and mounting mechanism and design may be the same for each engine chosen. Many different designs are however shown on our plans. Various prop options are available for each design and may include 2, 3 and 4 blade wood or composite ground adjustable pitch options.

Making your own powered paraglider should save one in the region of 40- 50%, if one has access to machining. If you subcontract out the work, depending where it is undertaken, one should have a saving of 20-40%. A second hand wing should set you back in the region of R5-6000 South African Rands, while a brand new one around R12-14000 South African Rands. Applying your logo or business name will cost around R1500-2500 rands. (To convert this currency to one of your choice go to the end of our price list and visit the currency converter).

Build your own options
1. Reduction ratio (Solo, Hirth, motor bike, go cart engines)
2. Clutch engine (Just needs mounting on a frame. No reduction ratio etc)

OUR PLANS CD NOW INCLUDES HOW TO BUILD YOUR PPG FROM A MOTOR BIKE ENGINE WITHOUT EVEN TURNING ANY REDUCTION PULLEYS. THIS NOW MAKES THIS DOCUMENT PROBABLY THE LARGEST IN THE WORLD AS IT CONTAINS PLANS FOR GO CART ENGINES, MOTOR BIKE EMGINES, AND ALL THE OTHER STANDARD DESIGNS USING REDUCTION RATIOS SUCH AS SOLOS, HIRTHS ETC AND CENTRIFUGAL CLUTCH ENGINES. IT ALSO IS PROVIDED WITH HUNDREDS OF FULL COLOR PHOTOS OF ASSEMBLY HINTS, A FULL 260 PAGE E BOOK, ALSO FULL COLOR ON POWERED PARAGLIDING AND A 30 MIN PPG VIDEO.

THERES NOT MUCH MORE YOU COULD WANT!!

THIS IS A BRIEF EXPLANATION BY ETIENNE SMUTS ON HOW TO BUILD HIS PPG FROM A MOTOR BIKE ENGINE.

Flying has always interested me, but only got to flying R/C planes. I made up my mind after searching the net and ending up at a site called Skytribe. I phoned Dave after some good advice, I decided I am going to build a PPG.

I phoned around looking for a 100 cc go-cart engine but ended up buying an ex-race Honda NSR 125, liquid cooled engine with wiring harness carburetor, radiator, exhaust and everything else I needed.

I started stripping this motor by removing the clutch cover and clutch assembly, at this stage I was still considering cutting the gearbox section off and only using the engine. I somehow would have had to mount a propeller drive shaft and reduction system. Looking at the crank gear and clutch gear I realized that this was the way to go and decided to remove everything not needed like selector drum, gear selector drum, shafts, gears etc.

The clutch gear was easy to remove, only needed to drill six rivets. I had to split the engine to remove the primary and secondary shafts and the gears attached to them. I still used the primary shaft. Some other motor cycle engines like the Honda NSR 250 (which is a twin cylinder though, producing 65 Hp easily) has a gearbox that can be removed from the side of the engine once the clutch cover has been removed. I had to split this one though.

The flywheel has to be removed as all the bolts keeping the engine together are fitted from the left, some behind the flywheel. The barrel has to be removed as well, but can be removed with cylinder head still attached, so I didn't have to buy a new head gasket. The engine was in an excellent condition and hardly any carbon was on the piston, it obviously has been replaced recently to ensure best performance. The conrod / crank also had no play at all!

I had to have an output shaft machined that fitted to the clutch gear with six bolts. The shock dampening rubbers were still used to keep things smooth and dampen unwanted “shocks” etc. possibly shortening the engine life time.

The clutch cover was milled out the centre for the output shaft and a bearing retaining boss carefully aligned and welded to the clutch cover. This boss also housed the oil seal that runs on a steel sleeve that was pressed onto the shaft.

The propeller hub and locating plate was turned on a lathe and both were anodized. The hub is located in position onto the shaft with a round pin. The pin's hole was drilled half / half in the hub and shaft, al most like a locating key.

The engine was assembled after all the removed shaft's holes were blanked off using shaped aluminum plates and PRC sealant.

I built my cage using mild steel 19 x 0.9 mm and 16 x 0.9 mm tubing. It ended up very light yet strong. “Long nuts” were turned round and welded into holes drilled in the cage where the engine was to be mounted. The engine was mounted in three positions each position using two engine mount rubbers that were screwed into “long nuts” in cage.

The bike had a PRD (after market pipe). I fitted the pipe to the engine, cutting and turning it as necessary after lengthening it to bring the max power down to about 9000 – 9500 RPM. The engine is very strong, I had to set the power valve closed quite a bit to stop it from over speeding the prop. I am going to fit a courser pitch prop and open the power valve again at a later stage.

It is a pleasure with the electric starter and I have no problems at all to get it started, touch the button and it starts.

If I had to remove the flywheel, starter, charging coils, wiring and battery it should weigh in at the same weight as the solo 210 which weighs 30kg's but THIS solo also hasn't got electric start and vibrates a lot more than the Honda engine.

I am convinced that I am going to have hours & hours of trouble free service from this very reliable engine that cost me R2500.00 excluding the machining of the shaft, the tubing, paint, bolts, nuts etc. And should I mention I took a week leave from work and completed it!!

This Honda NSR 125 is going to become my ppg engine , I Bought it for R2500.00 from a local motorcycle workshop.I had to strip it down and remove all unwanted spares.I even considered to cut the gearbox section off but deciced to use the
existing primary shaft for the output shaft to mount the proppellor to as the reduction would be 1:3.25 between the crank gear and the cluch gear.This engine produces its max. power at 9500rpm and lengthening the exhaust should help bring the power down a bit , so at 9100rpm the proppellor speed wil be 2800rpm that is ideal.
Complete clutch assy.to be stripped and only the gear used

The clutch when it is stripped
1/ The spline will be removed for spacing purposes i could off machined a coller for the spacing but just used this for spacing
2/The clutch basket will also be removed

This is some of the parts removed from the engine
The rivets are actually quite soft and can easily be drilled. I will recommend to first drill a pilot hole with a thinner drillbit then using a thicker drillbit just to remove heads. 1/ 65 teeth gear
2/ 20 teeth gear
To place your order for the updated plans CD - CLICK HERE

 

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